Generally the railways are a safe environment for women in India. The stations are heavily policed and well lit. However, I've met several women travelling on their own and in groups who have had unpleasant and upsetting experiences. There is a perception amongst some Indian people and often reflected in Bolywood movies that western women are sexually promiscuous. This when added to very high instances of sexual assault in India means women travelling in India, especially when alone should be extremely cautious.
Follow these tips and the FCO advice found at :https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/india/safety-and-security
1. Avoid arriving or departing at night.
Train stations tend to be safe at night, however the journey to or from the station will invariably be more dangerous. One of the justifications used by the defendants in the deplorable case of
'India's Daughter' was that the victim was being 'provocative' by being out so late without a family member. Unfortunately, this type of misogynistic thinking may lead to you becoming a target if you are travelling late at night to or from a station.
2. Avoid sleeper class.
Wherever possible travel 1AC, 2AC or 3AC. All of these classes have allocated beds, a conductor who can help if there are any issues and curtains for privacy. They also have air-conditioning, which on a 17 hour journey with limited water and blistering heat is a big plus. In 1st class, the door to some cabins are even lockable.
Generally , for long journeys, you can expect to pay £10-£30 for a 1AC ticket, £7 - £15 for 2AC and £5 to £10 for a 3AC ticket.
Sleeper class by contrast will generally cost £1-£2 but has no quota at all. This results in masses of people sitting on the roof on the busiest routes. But on all routes it equate to a very hot, sweaty, overcrowded, predominantly male environment. IF you do chose to travel in sleeper class you are likely to be the only western women in the carriage. Be prepared for the unwanted attention that will come along with that and only do it if you are in a group. Also be aware that the scramble for seats as the train pulls into the station is brutal.
Finally, often the train is so full that the doors are not able to be closed. This may result in you being pressed up close to an open door as the train is hurtling along.
3. Sort your tickets in advance
1AC, 2AC and 3AC tickets sell out well in advance (generally at least a week prior to departure). This means if you leave it too late you could end up either not being able to travel or having to travel in Sleeper. moreover rail terminals in India are busy, chaotic places and extremely disorientating. They are also a focal point for crime targeting foreigners. Therefore, trying to purchase tickets on the day of departure will always cause unnecessary stress and make you more susceptible to the innumerable con artists offering you 'discount/easy tickets'.
There are two ways to purchase tickets in advance, both explained here.
4. Use prepaid or hotel Taxi's either end.
At many major Railway stations there are licensed prepaid taxi stands. Usually these are listed in guidebooks and run by the town's taxi drivers unions. Try to make a note of the license plate as you get in, have a rough idea of where the driver ought to be going in advance and have your phone at hand.
Only ever take a bus if you are certain that it is either a coach belonging to a reputable tour operator or genuine government bus (these will often be very full and are all liveried in the same fashion).
This appalling case involved a non government bus while there have been many reports or rickshaw and tuk tuk drivers sexually assaulting or robbing passengers.
5. Be careful when offered food or drink.
Rail journeys are often delayed and you are likely to be hungry and thirsty. However, there have been a number of reports of drinks or food offered by strangers being spiked on trains leading to robberies or sexual assaults. But, Indians are welcoming and generous people and most offers will be genuine. Just be cautious in accepting.
6. Consider wearing a wedding ring.
Wearing a wedding ring (Even if you are too young to be married in western culture) will guarantee a reduction in unwanted male attention and in many cases more respect. If you feel uneasy try to mention that you are married. If travelling with a man, saying that he is a husband may make your life more comfortable.
7. Save the key numbers.
Have your hotel or hostels number saved in your phone as well as the emergency services and British High Commission both of which can be found here.
8. Follow the advice in the general safety tips section.
Tips that apply to men and women can be found here. This includes how to avoid theft, fraudsters and other perils of the railway.
9. Dress like the locals
Don't go and buy a sari, you'll look like a plonker. But do dress in line with local norms. Generally modest clothing will be a winner.
And finally... Chill
All the above are measures to avoid the worse case scenarios. In reality you are unlikely to have any major hassles. Indians are kind, welcoming people. The scenes of mass protests following the Delhi gang rape in 2012 reflect the reality that most of them respect women and are appalled by the high levels of sexual assault reported in India. If you exercise common sense you will have a great and safe trip.
